You have to be nuts to go to Montepio

Montepio is the best known beach in Los Tuxtlas, about an hour from Catemaco, Veracruz.

Balzapote is a beach about 3 miles south from there. And both photos were taken today!

See more of the two beaches: catemaco.info - articles

South East Coast of Catemaco

The southeast Catemaco coast of Los Tuxtlas is still "terra incognito".

Although only a few miles away, (as a Mexican crow might fly), it is a hard 6 hour drive to reach the area from Catemaco - or any other major city in the area. The faster southern section of the coast, near Laguna del Ostion, is now sprucing up with an in progress bridge to connect to Coatzacoalcos. The northern section is still the step child of Veracruz road builders.

Although riddled with presences of prehispanic population, the area encompassing the north of the municipio of Mecayapan is in now a sparsely populated part of Catemaco.
The area was settled via the Mexican land give away programs in the 1960's, and has developed into an ecological disaster zone. Occupying the flanks of the Sierra Santa Marta mostly still starving peasants have shredded the environment of most any tree worth its peso and have substituted black and brown mobile cattle.

On a recent venture investigating remaining parrot species in the the area above coastal Arrecifes, my faithful truck blew a transmission seal. Perhaps there are 4x4 tow trucks in other parts of the world but in this location the only option was a tractor pull down some nighmare slopes.

Instead I opted for the solution most inhabitants of the area have employed for 50 years and imported mechanics via ocean (gulf) going launch from Sontecomapan near Catemaco.
The effort apparently was so impressive, the Arrecifes community sent me an invitation to return to participate in its annual pachanga (celebration) on May 3rd.
So now we are planning an expedition!

Personally I will allow my unfaithful truck to return to the area while lesser wimps will charter boats from the Sontecomapan embarcadero for the 1 hour ride to Arrecifes. There are no accomodations in the community built upon a bluff above the coastal beaches, and camping gear is required.

The open charter boats seat about 12, and so far we are 18. Two years ago, 6 others drowned on the same voyage. To optimize charter costs we need another 6 to fill the second lancha. Email me if you want to participate.

Catemaco South Coast

Catemaco and the volcanic Los Tuxtlas, Veracruz have so many distinct personalities that at times, because of ease of information access, many aspects are overlooked.

I spent the last week running away from Catemaco brujo-schism rediscovering the forgotten isolated coast of the Los Tuxtlas fronting the Sierra Santa Marta and Volcano San Martin Pajapan to Laguna del Ostion. Touristically, this may rank as one of the least explored areas in Mexico because of its difficulty of access.

At most any point along almost 50 miles, this coast is 40, and usually more, miles from the nearest highway. There is no major city anywhere near these beaches claiming proprietary relationships. All these beaches are isolated, "unspoiled", lacking palapas serving Corona beers, fried fish or sunburned tourists.

Seen from offshore, at any point the entire coast is breathtakingly beautiful.
The stretch from Catemaco´s La Barra to El Carrizal is a cattle rustlers´s no-man´s land, accessible only by a boat towed one car ferry.
The stretch from El Carrizal to Los Arrecifes is so wild, even cattle rustlers cannot find it. From Los Arrecifes to Perla del Golfo, once a day Gulf going fishing boats leave Catemaco's Sontecomapan, catering mostly to the survival habits of those localities in terms of fresh produce and needed supplies.

Further south, all beach communities are served by a backbreaking road leading to the provincial capital of Tatahuicapan, population 6,723, many hours away, unless the roads are washed out.

Near Laguna del Ostion, the touristic situation improves somewhat, with an almost paved highway to the Gulf of Mexico from Tatahuicapan, via Pajapan to several isolated beach communities, terminating at Jicajal, a sea food eating oasis, for visitors from Minatitlan, 50 miles away.

That same road, in the opposite direction leads to Peña Hermosa, the only publicized Santa Marta beach facility, promoting government bungalows and an anemic turtle watching program.
Almost every piece of this 50 mile long coast is literally untouched and cluttered with driftwood.

Catemaco Beaches

Ok! the sand is not glittering white, and there are no 8 foot Pacific breaking waves, but do you notice the absence of foot prints?

This is just one of the dozens of beaches within easy access of beautiful downtown Catemaco.

Montepio

Thank you for Montepio not being part of beautiful uptown Catemaco, Veracruz. This hovel of money grubbing, dirty denizens of one of the more beautiful scenes along the Los Tuxtlas coast is actually part of the San Andres Tuxtla (S.A.T.) municipio.

That municipio, since the advent of a dirt road, 30 or 40 years ago, from Catemaco to Montepio has done its best to avoid improving this beach town´s infrastructure, probably because of jealousy to allow tourists to head for beautiful downtown Catemaco instead of beleaguered uninteresting S.A.T. S.A.T. , itself offers about as much to tourists as a trip to ugly downtown Hicksville, USA.

Instead of helping in paving their part of the Montepio road, S.A.T apparently developed its own hare brained scheme for a disconnected paved road via Ruiz Cortines, which at present ony serves some fat cattle ranchers. And iInstead of maintaining one of the unique artifacts of Los Tuxtlas, - (the 19th century Hacienda of Montepio), Montepio's only historic jewel is a pig sty.

Residents indiscriminately clutter the beach with dilapidated palapas, forcing non-consuming bathers across the river to Dos de Abril. Meanwhile, sun stroked bathers BE AWARE to take advantage of the palapa shade - costs 40 PESOS to sit here, Señor!

The heart of Montepio, visible from 360 degrees, is the epitome of Los Tuxtlas sense of care for its environment. Gravel hungry builders have destroyed Montepio's pristine view, except of course for the scissor hair cuts of the surrounding hills. At least the S.A.T. part of the Montepio road is now being paved, after S.A.T sat on its rear end for many months and apparently funneled Montepio money into Ruiz Cortinez. As a consequence many parts of the previously prepared road, which was ready for paving, is now a wash out nightmare and will cost twice as much to repair and finish. Whenever!

The abortion part of the Montepio road, designed by the biologists of the UNAM biological station, still exists, and should become a reminder to the entire world, to not let biologists design roads, at least until engineers are allowed to clone mammals with wheels instead of legs.

A curious adjunct is the complaint from Montepio residents is that their Hurricane Stan relief from S.A.T. was absolutely nothing. There is a vague movement for that part of the Los Tuxtlas zone to secede from San Andres Tuxtla and establish a new municipio headquartered in La Nueva Victoria, near the El Tropico entrance to the Tuxtlas beaches.

Great idea, except there are so many rich folks from S.A.T. owning most of the area on a forgotten basis, judging by its many abandoned structures. And the actual residents of the area own almost none of it. Meanwhile, the waters of Rio Maquina and Rio Col are still wonderfully cool, and the shore beaches are still wonderfully warm. and when the fish or shrimp are fresh ( which on my last visit was also questionable), Montepio is one of the great places to visit on the Tuxtlas coast.

Too bad!

Roca Partida - Los Tuxtlas beach head

Not far from beautiful downtown Catemaco, Veracruz, the San Martin Volcano stretched out its tongue to the the Gulf of Mexico. And thevolcano left an impressive shoreline filled with caves and sea birds.

The pirate Lorencillo (Laurens van Graff) supposedly buried treasure in one of the caves surrounding Roca Partida after having sacked Veracruz City in 1683. At low tide the interior of the caves allegedly show markings on where to find the gold.

Of course you have to rappel down that cliff first!

Come on down and visit!

Photo: Original unknown- seen on many other internet web sites.

Capulteotl

This is the end of the world, at least for beautiful downtown Catemaco, Veracruz.

Almost one quarter of Catemaco county, between El Carrizal, La Barra and the foothills surrounding Lake Catemaco, are only fit for beasts and those that cater to them, or the politicians that decide where to build roads.

Access is by a one car, boat towed ferry (100 pesos each way, or a few pesos by highly irregular lanchas) to some wild and beautiful beaches. Shoot some pool, grab a beer or a soda at Don Yito´s before you head inland. That is the last outpost of civilization.

Catemaco Lighthouses

Sail on!” it says: “sail on, ye stately ships! And with your floating bridge the ocean span; Be mine to guard this light from all eclipse. Be yours to bring man neared unto man.” This is an excerpt from “The Lighthouse” poem by Henry Wadsworth Longfellow about the soon to be abandoned structures that guided sailors through the dark.

Although lacking romance, GPS (satellite based Global Positioning Systems), are the electronic future. Los Tuxtlas are surrounded by lighthouses. Veracruz city boasts the first modern lighthouse in Mexico, built in 1795, and the surrounding seas from there to Coatzacoalcos abound with many unique structures.

Roca Partida 40 foot(13m) lighthouse sits on a magnificent volcanic bluff above a cave in which the pirate Lorencillo allegedly buried his treasure. The keeper’s quarters at present are a sheep farm and fenced against visitors. Built in 1909, it still serves the mostly primitive local fishing industry. Access by car is from the highway in front via 15 cattle gates, or a 30 minute uphill climb from Arroyo de Lisa. About 90 minutes from Catemaco.

Punta Zapotitlan 100 foot (30m) lighthouse possibly dates from the 1920´s and its premier location near Perla del Golfo makes it a magnificent focus for offshore viewing of the Sierra Santa Marta. Visits are only possible by a boat taxi from Sontecomapan (800 pesos roundtrip per boat) or a hard 8 hour drive from Catemaco.